Glue down vinyl installation is an easy installation method that is quick and DIY friendly. Use this as a guide, but always refer to the manufacturer directions for installation.
Acclimate the flooring for 48 hours in a consistently maintained temperature of 65°- 85°F, in a clean, non-concrete room. Purchase the specific pressure-sensitive adhesive for your application (the manufacturer will specify). Remove wall bases, undercut doors and begin your subfloor preparation.
Subfloor preparation is one of the most important parts of a flooring installation. A glue down vinyl floor can be adhered to a concrete, wood or tile subfloor. All surfaces must be in good condition, level and without damage.
Concrete subfloors must be thoroughly dry at least six weeks and completely cured. Concrete slabs must be checked for moisture before installation — the Moisture emission from subfloor cannot exceed 3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. per 24 hours as measured with the calcium chloride test.
To eliminate small cuts around the edges and to leave a uniform border, find the center of the room before you begin. To do this, treat the room as a rectangle(disregarding offsets, alcoves, etc.). Snap a chalk line from the center points of the end walls. At the center of this line, use a carpenter square or tile to draw a second chalk line perpendicular to the first and extend this line to the side walls. The center of the room is where these two chalk lines intersect. This should be a perfect 90 degree angle. Careful and precise measurements must be taken during plank layout. Lay all planks in the same direction.
Vinyl planks should be placed “balanced” in the work area. Planks may be laid in line or in a pyramid fashion in the work area. In either case,make sure the planks line up perfectly with chalk line.
A removable or non-removal vinyl adhesive is required for adhering vinyl to the subfloor. The manufacturer will specify the exact adhesive needed. Follow the adhesive instructions precisely. Apply the adhesive with a 1/16” wide, 1/16” deep, and 1/16” apart-notched trowel. Begin applying adhesive at the intersection of the chalk lines; spread the adhesive in the predetermined area. The adhesive should be given sufficient open time so that the trowel ridges appear “cloudy” or “hazy” and the trowel “Valleys” are clear. The adhesive must be sufficiently tacky to prevent tile slippage during placement. Do not allow the adhesive to become clear. If adhesive gets onto walking surface of planks, immediately wipe of with soft dry cloth before it has time to dry.
After the adhesive has had sufficient open time, begin laying planks along the designated starting line, working back to the starting wall for in line pattern (fig 3). For Pyramid install (fig 4) begin laying the planks at the center line. Continue adding planks in a pyramid fashion Plank ends should be staggered in a random manner so as to avoid clustering the end joints. Varying the length of the starting plank can assure sufficient stagger of end joints. End joints should be staggered by at least 6”. Always use factory-cut ends for end joints. Pay particular attention to the randomness of the plank layout; avoid establishing a repeating pattern. Continue installing the planks in a random fashion and complete each area before beginning the next – see Figure 3 and 4. If required, use a kneeling board to avoid walking on freshly installed planks. Insure that the planks are firmly bonded to the subfloor by rolling the entire installation with a minimum of 100-pound three-section floor roller.
Vinyl can be cut with a large tile cutter or by using the score and snap technique. Direct or pattern scribe the flooring to fit into complicated, irregular walls or pipes, etc.
Most vinyl glue-downs will need to be rolled with a minimum 100-pound, three-section floor roller immediately after installation. Roll the flooring in both directions to firmly seat the plank into the adhesive. Protect all exposed edges of the vinyl by installing wall molding and/or transition strips. Use caution to prevent the fasteners from securing the planks to the subfloor. Caulk along tubs, toilet bowls, etc. Do not wash the floor for 48 hours after installation. After 48 hours, damp mop with a vinyl cleaner to remove residual surface dirt.
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We're going to talk about are cutting holes i've had to do holes, and both of the installs that i've done one was for a drainpipe that was in the laundry room and I had to measure for that, and I used a forstner bit to cut that out there, great thing is is that for this vinyl plank flooring you can just use regular wood working tools like drill bits you don't have to do anything special like the masonry bed or anything like that you can just use a regular drill bit like a spade bit or a forstner bit to get that done, and a more common thing that you might have to make a hole for would be.
Knowing how to make the right cuts is a key to a successful install, I'm gonna show you how to make all the cuts that you will need to get it right, and the tools that you need to do it from DIY to probe those go ahead and jump into the cuts